I watched this just the other day. Loved it! Hard to tell if it's because of my obsessive, claustrophobic cat fetish or because I have extreme faith in Miyazaki's delivery or because it was a good movie, but I loved it nonetheless. Very funny - especially the emperor! "I told them not to stand in a line!!!" And of course the 'romantic' flavour was not milked, which was nice. Bit creepy that she developed a crush on a cat at the end but what can I say... so had I, by that point. Hehe. I experienced a poignant sadness when the story was over, and thought to myself, 'When will they all see each other again?! How could you go back to normal life after that?'
I generally enjoy a movie if it has at least one thing in it that I like, so this was a real winner for me. Only flaw - couldn't stand the main character's haircut. Not really a biggie, is it?